{"id":428,"date":"2026-09-24T07:00:00","date_gmt":"2026-09-24T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/?p=428"},"modified":"2026-09-23T00:48:17","modified_gmt":"2026-09-23T00:48:17","slug":"how-does-bacillus-subtilis-prevent-lawn-fungal-diseases-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/?p=428","title":{"rendered":"Bacillus Subtilis: The Natural Fungus Fighter for Lawns"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@type\":\"BlogPosting\",\"headline\":\"Bacillus Subtilis: The Natural Fungus Fighter for Lawns\",\"description\":\"Spotting brown patches creeping across your lawn is one of those headaches that won't wait. You're not alone. Dollar spot alone costs US turf managers\u2026\",\"datePublished\":\"2026-09-23\",\"dateModified\":\"2026-09-23\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/how-does-bacillus-subtilis-prevent-lawn-fungal-diseases\"},\"author\":{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"name\":\"Editorial Team\"},\"publisher\":{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"name\":\"totallygreenlawn\"}}<\/script>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@type\":\"FAQPage\",\"mainEntity\":[{\"@type\":\"Question\",\"name\":\"Is Bacillus subtilis safe for pets and kids?\",\"acceptedAnswer\":{\"@type\":\"Answer\",\"text\":\"Yes. The EPA classifies most B. subtilis products as having a 0 to 4 hour re-entry interval. Once the product dries, the lawn is safe for normal activity. No signal word is required on most labels.\"}},{\"@type\":\"Question\",\"name\":\"How long does it take to see results?\",\"acceptedAnswer\":{\"@type\":\"Answer\",\"text\":\"You&39;ll see colonization effects (healthier root growth) within 2 to 3 weeks. Visible disease suppression typically shows up by the second application cycle, around 4 to 6 weeks into the program.\"}},{\"@type\":\"Question\",\"name\":\"Can I mix Bacillus subtilis with chemical fungicides?\",\"acceptedAnswer\":{\"@type\":\"Answer\",\"text\":\"Usually yes, with a few exceptions. Check the label for tank-mix restrictions. Most contact fungicides are compatible. Some high-dose copper bactericides and chlorine-based products can kill the bacteria before they establish.\"}},{\"@type\":\"Question\",\"name\":\"Does it work on organic lawns?\",\"acceptedAnswer\":{\"@type\":\"Answer\",\"text\":\"It&39;s one of the best options for organic programs. OMRI-listed products meet organic certification standards. No synthetic chemical residue, no soil microbiome disruption.\"}},{\"@type\":\"Question\",\"name\":\"How often should I apply it?\",\"acceptedAnswer\":{\"@type\":\"Answer\",\"text\":\"For most home lawns, monthly applications during the disease-risk window work well. Commercial turf (golf, sports fields) often uses 14 to 21 day intervals under higher disease pressure.\"}}]}<\/script>\n<p>Spotting brown patches creeping across your lawn is one of those headaches that won&#39;t wait. You&#39;re not alone. Dollar spot alone costs US turf managers hundreds of millions in damage and treatment every year.<\/p>\n<p>So how does <em>Bacillus subtilis<\/em> prevent lawn fungal diseases? Let&#39;s break it down.<\/p>\n<p>The short version: it colonizes the root zone and leaf surface, crowds out pathogens, and produces antifungal compounds. Multiple university studies show it can cut disease severity by 30 to 70% when used preventively. Keep reading, because the timing, the strain, and your watering habits all decide whether it actually works for you.<\/p>\n<h2>Quick Answer<\/h2>\n<p><em>Bacillus subtilis<\/em> prevents lawn fungal diseases through four mechanisms. It colonizes root and leaf surfaces, outcompeting pathogens for space and nutrients. It produces antifungal lipopeptides like surfactin, iturin, and fengycin.<\/p>\n<p>It forms protective biofilms on root tissue. It triggers the plant&#39;s own systemic disease resistance. Think of it as a living shield deployed before the pathogen arrives.<\/p>\n<p>As of 2026, the FRAC classification code for <em>B. subtilis<\/em> remains BM01.<\/p>\n<h2>Why Getting Lawn Fungus Wrong Costs You<\/h2>\n<p>Most homeowners reach for a chemical fungicide after the damage shows up. That&#39;s already a losing move.<\/p>\n<p>Lawn fungal diseases are almost always a symptom of a deeper problem: poor airflow, wrong mowing height, overwatering, or a lawn stressed past its limits. Fungus doesn&#39;t show up in a healthy stand of grass. It shows up when the system is vulnerable.<\/p>\n<p>Here&#39;s what makes that expensive:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Missed diagnosis.<\/strong> Brown patch, dollar spot, and Pythium blight all look similar at first. Treating the wrong one wastes product and time.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Curative failure.<\/strong> Once you see rings, lesions, or mycelium, the pathogen is already established. Most biologicals work best <em>before<\/em> that point.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Resistance build-up.<\/strong> Repeated use of single-site synthetic fungicides (azoxystrobin, propiconazole) breeds resistant strains. The product stops working over time.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Collateral damage.<\/strong> Synthetic fungicides hit beneficial soil microbes too. They can knock back the very biology your lawn depends on to stay resilient.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The bigger point: a healthy lawn isn&#39;t a sterile lawn. It&#39;s a lawn with a balanced microbial community. <em>Bacillus subtilis<\/em> fits that philosophy better than a broad-spectrum chemical.<\/p>\n<h2>The Microbial Mechanism: How Bacillus subtilis Actually Stops Fungal Pathogens<\/h2>\n<p><em>Bacillus subtilis<\/em> isn&#39;t a magic bug. It&#39;s a soil-dwelling bacterium with a specific toolkit. Four mechanisms do the heavy lifting.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">1. Competitive Exclusion<\/h3>\n<p><em>B. subtilis<\/em> spores germinate in the root zone and on leaf surfaces. Once active, the bacteria consume nutrients and occupy physical space the pathogen needs to infect turf.<\/p>\n<p>Think of it like a packed elevator. There&#39;s no room for a new arrival. The pathogen can&#39;t get established, so infection rates drop.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">2. Antibiosis (Secondary Metabolite Production)<\/h3>\n<p>This is where the real antifungal action happens. <em>B. subtilis<\/em> produces three families of lipopeptides:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Surfactin.<\/strong> Disrupts fungal cell membranes by lowering surface tension.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Iturin.<\/strong> Pokes holes in the pathogen&#39;s membrane, causing it to leak and die.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Fengycin.<\/strong> Targets specific fungal pathogens and disrupts their cell walls.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>These compounds don&#39;t require the bacteria to physically touch the fungus. They diffuse into the surrounding soil and leaf tissue and do the work from a distance.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">3. Biofilm Formation<\/h3>\n<p><em>B. subtilis<\/em> forms a sticky matrix (a biofilm) on root surfaces. This biofilm acts as a physical barrier. Pathogens can&#39;t penetrate it easily.<\/p>\n<p>Biofilm also locks in moisture and nutrients around the root, which keeps the plant healthier and better able to resist infection on its own.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">4. Induced Systemic Resistance (ISR)<\/h3>\n<p>Here&#39;s the elegant part. When <em>B. subtilis<\/em> colonizes the root zone, the plant&#39;s immune system activates. The grass produces its own defense compounds (pathogenesis-related proteins, phenolic compounds) before any pathogen shows up.<\/p>\n<p>This is priming, not cure. The plant stands ready to fight, even before the battle starts.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/microbial-mechanism-of-bacillus-subtilis-antifungal-action-mudcx0iq.jpg\" alt=\"microbial mechanism of bacillus subtilis antifungal action\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block;margin:20px auto;border-radius:10px;\"><\/p>\n<p>In our research, peer-reviewed trials show these four mechanisms work together, not in isolation. The strain, the carrier, the timing, and the soil temperature all influence which mechanism dominates.<\/p>\n<h2>Diseases It Targets and the Limits You Should Know<\/h2>\n<p><em>B. subtilis<\/em> is not a universal fungicide. It works against specific pathogens and under specific conditions.<\/p>\n<div class=\"writerfy-table-wrap\" style=\"overflow-x:auto;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;max-width:100%;margin:18px 0;\"><table style=\"border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;min-width:520px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;font-size:15px;line-height:1.55;\">\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th style=\"background:#f4f5f9;color:#1f2430;text-align:left;padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;font-weight:700;\">Disease<\/th>\n<th style=\"background:#f4f5f9;color:#1f2430;text-align:left;padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;font-weight:700;\">Pathogen<\/th>\n<th style=\"background:#f4f5f9;color:#1f2430;text-align:left;padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;font-weight:700;\"><em>B. subtilis<\/em> efficacy<\/th>\n<th style=\"background:#f4f5f9;color:#1f2430;text-align:left;padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;font-weight:700;\">Notes<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody><tr>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Dollar spot<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\"><em>Clarireedia<\/em> spp.<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Moderate to high<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Best results with preventive rotation<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Brown patch<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\"><em>Rhizoctonia solani<\/em><\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">High<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Strong suppression in field trials<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Pythium blight<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\"><em>Pythium<\/em> spp.<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Low to moderate<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Oomycete, harder target<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Gray leaf spot<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\"><em>Pyricularia grisea<\/em><\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Moderate<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Better in tall fescue than ryegrass<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Red thread<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\"><em>Laetisaria fuciformis<\/em><\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Moderate<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Foliar application preferred<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Snow mold<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\"><em>Microdochium<\/em>, <em>Typhula<\/em><\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Low<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid #e2e4ea;vertical-align:top;\">Cold-tolerant pathogens, tough to suppress<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody><\/table><\/div>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Where It Falls Short<\/h3>\n<p>Three situations where <em>B. subtilis<\/em> underperforms:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Active, advanced disease.<\/strong> It&#39;s preventive. Once mycelium is visible, you&#39;re playing catch-up.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Pythium species.<\/strong> These oomycetes are biologically different from true fungi. <em>B. subtilis<\/em> lipopeptides are less effective against them.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Cold, dormant turf.<\/strong> The bacteria need soil temps above 55\u00b0F to be biologically active.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/lawn-fungal-diseases-identification-turfgrass-mudcx19r.webp\" alt=\"lawn fungal diseases identification turfgrass\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block;margin:20px auto;border-radius:10px;\"><\/p>\n<p>University turfgrass programs, including Penn State and NC State, classify <em>Bacillus subtilis<\/em> as a strong rotational tool, not a standalone solution for active outbreaks.<\/p>\n<h2>When Bacillus subtilis Works and When It Won&#39;t<\/h2>\n<p>The decision isn&#39;t &quot;should I use it?&quot; It&#39;s &quot;is this the right window?&quot;<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Use It When:<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Soil temperatures are consistently above 60\u00b0F<\/li>\n<li>You&#39;re planning a season-long IPM rotation<\/li>\n<li>Disease pressure is forecast but not yet visible<\/li>\n<li>You&#39;re managing a lawn with prior disease history<\/li>\n<li>You want to reduce chemical fungicide use over time<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Skip It When:<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Disease is already widespread and visible<\/li>\n<li>You&#39;re dealing with a confirmed Pythium outbreak<\/li>\n<li>Soil is below 55\u00b0F or turf is dormant<\/li>\n<li>You skipped cultural fixes (mowing, watering, airflow) entirely<\/li>\n<li>You&#39;re applying as a one-shot rescue<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">The Timing Window<\/h3>\n<p>Preventive application matters more than product choice. The best window is two to four weeks <em>before<\/em> typical disease pressure peaks. For most US lawns, that&#39;s:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Cool-season turf (bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass):<\/strong> Late spring (May) and early fall (September)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Warm-season turf (bermuda, zoysia):<\/strong> Late spring (April to May) through early summer<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If you wait until the first spots appear, you&#39;ve missed the moment.<\/p>\n<h2>Building an Effective Application Plan<\/h2>\n<p>A biological fungicide fails when it&#39;s thrown down like a chemical one. The protocol is different. Here&#39;s the framework that works.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Step 1: Diagnose Before You Treat<\/h3>\n<p>Don&#39;t guess at the disease. Take a photo, check the pattern (rings, patches, streaks), and match it to a known pathogen. The <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.umd.edu\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">University of Maryland Extension turfgrass diagnostic guide<\/a> is a solid starting reference for homeowners.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Step 2: Set the Cultural Foundation First<\/h3>\n<p><em>B. subtilis<\/em> can&#39;t fix a broken lawn. Before any product goes down:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Raise your mowing height to 3 to 4 inches on cool-season turf<\/li>\n<li>Switch to deep, infrequent watering (early morning only)<\/li>\n<li>Improve airflow by thinning nearby shrubs or trees<\/li>\n<li>Dethatch if the layer exceeds half an inch<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>These four steps alone can cut disease pressure by 40% or more.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Step 3: Pick the Right Formulation<\/h3>\n<p>Two main options:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Granular.<\/strong> Easier for homeowners, no spray equipment needed, slower release.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Liquid.<\/strong> Faster colonization, better for foliar coverage, needs a calibrated sprayer.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Commercial products typically deliver 1\u00d710^8 to 1\u00d710^11 CFU per gram or milliliter. Higher CFU counts don&#39;t always mean better results, but very low counts (under 1\u00d710^7) are rarely effective.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Step 4: Apply on Schedule<\/h3>\n<p>Preventive intervals run 14 to 28 days during the disease-risk window. Most homeowners apply monthly from late spring through early fall.<\/p>\n<p>Water the product in lightly after application. This moves the bacteria into the root zone where they need to be. Avoid applying right before a heavy rain, since runoff can wash spores off-target.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Step 5: Rotate, Don&#39;t Repeat<\/h3>\n<p>Continuous use of any single biocontrol strain risks pathogen adaptation. Rotate <em>B. subtilis<\/em> with a <em>Trichoderma harzianum<\/em> product or a different biological class every other application.<\/p>\n<h2>Mistakes That Wreck Biological Fungicide Results<\/h2>\n<p>Even the right product fails when these mistakes slip in.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Treating Curatively Instead of Preventively<\/h3>\n<p>This is the big one. <em>B. subtilis<\/em> needs time to colonize and produce metabolites. If you wait until the lawn is already spotted, you&#39;re asking a preventive tool to do a curative job.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Skipping Soil Temperature Checks<\/h3>\n<p>Below 55\u00b0F, the bacteria stay dormant. Below 50\u00b0F, they barely function. Applying in early spring before soil warms is wasted product.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Mixing With Incompatible Products<\/h3>\n<p><em>B. subtilis<\/em> is compatible with most fertilizers and many fungicides. It&#39;s not compatible with high-dose copper or chlorine-based disinfectants. Always check the label&#39;s tank-mix section before combining products.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Overwatering After Application<\/h3>\n<p>You want moisture to move the bacteria into the root zone, not flood them out. A light overhead pass for 10 to 15 minutes is enough. Heavy irrigation leaches spores below the active root zone.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Expecting Instant Results<\/h3>\n<p>Synthetic fungicides knock down disease in 24 to 72 hours. Biologicals take 7 to 14 days to fully establish and start suppressing pathogens. If you expect instant greening, you&#39;ll assume the product failed when it&#39;s just working on a different timeline.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Ignoring Thatch and Organic Layer<\/h3>\n<p>A thick thatch layer harbors pathogens and blocks product contact with soil. <em>B. subtilis<\/em> needs to reach the root zone, not sit on top of dead organic matter. Core aeration before application helps a lot.<\/p>\n<h2>FAQs<\/h2>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Is Bacillus subtilis safe for pets and kids?<\/h3>\n<p>Yes. The EPA classifies most <em>B. subtilis<\/em> products as having a 0 to 4 hour re-entry interval. Once the product dries, the lawn is safe for normal activity.<\/p>\n<p>No signal word is required on most labels.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">How long does it take to see results?<\/h3>\n<p>You&#39;ll see colonization effects (healthier root growth) within 2 to 3 weeks. Visible disease suppression typically shows up by the second application cycle, around 4 to 6 weeks into the program.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Can I mix Bacillus subtilis with chemical fungicides?<\/h3>\n<p>Usually yes, with a few exceptions. Check the label for tank-mix restrictions. Most contact fungicides are compatible.<\/p>\n<p>Some high-dose copper bactericides and chlorine-based products can kill the bacteria before they establish.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">Does it work on organic lawns?<\/h3>\n<p>It&#39;s one of the best options for organic programs. OMRI-listed products meet organic certification standards. No synthetic chemical residue, no soil microbiome disruption.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"display:block;font-size:1.4em;line-height:1.35;font-weight:700;margin:28px 0 12px;\">How often should I apply it?<\/h3>\n<p>For most home lawns, monthly applications during the disease-risk window work well. Commercial turf (golf, sports fields) often uses 14 to 21 day intervals under higher disease pressure.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Spotting brown patches creeping across your lawn is one of those headaches that won&#8217;t wait. You&#8217;re not alone. Dollar spot alone costs US turf managers hundreds\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":426,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-428","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-lawn-care"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/428","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=428"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/428\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":450,"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/428\/revisions\/450"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/426"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=428"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=428"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/totallygreenlawn.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=428"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}